Sailing Lake Huron Shoreline Part 2

Sailing the Lake Huron shoreline Part 2 takes us through the most treacherous part of our voyage. But it is also a most interesting section as we visit some unique islands.

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The last leg of the journey may be the most difficult and dangerous of their voyage. After passing Deadman Point, our next stop is Johnston Harbour. This is a deep inlet which provides shelter from the winds that sweep across the lake. Johnston Harbour originated as a lumbering staging point where hookers loaded timber from the nearby forests and headed to markets in southern Ontario, Ohio, Michigan, and Illinois. Now it is a summer retreat, for cottagers wishing to enjoy the many scenic wonders of the Saugeen/Bruce Peninsula.

Passing Little Eagle Harbour and Dorcas Bay, we head to Eagle Harbour. Following Commodore Wakefield's suggestion, we approach the harbour in clear weather with the sun to our back in order that we may find the "glacial groove" which lies about midway between Warner and Pendall Points. Carefully crossing the reef, we are once again in deep water and head into the harbour.

Continuing our voyage, we head to another glacial groove, Baptist Harbour. It is well protected in all directions, except from the southwest. From Baptist Island to Cape Hurd, we must be extremely careful. The shoreline is etched with several shallow inlets and our passage will necessitate watching the depth of the water carefully.

From Cape Hurd onward, there will be many reminders of the dangerous stretch of water we are traversing. China Cove, Wreck Point and, off in the distance, Devil's Island, offer up tales of shipping tragedies of the past.

Tobermory is not far off. However, we are going to make a short but worthwhile side-trip. We swing away from the coastline and head in a northerly direction. Our destination is one of the most beautiful and tranquil spots that I have ever visited. We are heading to Cove Island.

As Cove Island appears on the horizon, almost the first thing we see is the lighthouse. I have often thought of a favourite book of my youth, Robinson Crusoe, and considered how amazing it would be to be stranded for a time on this wonderful island.

Alas, it is time to conclude our adventure. We board our vessel and head to Tobermory. As we sail along, I watch for Bear’s Rump Island and Flowerpot Island. We will make a short detour around Flowerpot to look at the majestic flowerpots, a testimony to nature's handiwork. Sailing by the island, I think of the native legends about the island and native "Romeo and Juliet" who may have spent their last days on Flowerpot Island.

Sailing into Tobermory, we have reached our destination. Tobermory is the summer home of thousands of tourists each year. Some come to dive among the shipwrecks, others travel here for scenery, while still others wait for the Chi Cheemaun to take them to Manitoulin Island and Lake Huron's north shore.

Tobermory originated as a fishing village. Owen Sound newspapers in the 1850s report visitations to that settlement of fishermen from “Tupper Murray” to sell fish and to buy supplies for the winter. Fishing is still an active commercial enterprise in the area and the only fitting way to end our voyage is to enjoy fish fry with fresh whitefish.

A version of this story originally appeared in my Local History column in the Owen Sound Sun Times on August 10, 1996.